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There’s a long tick-list of tea towns, Buddhist temples and national parks to pack into an itinerary, but perhaps it’s for that reason I relished these more simple moments, enjoying the ramshackle charm deep within a country that’s being smoothed out at its increasingly touristy edges.

My first port of call after landing in the chaotic capital, Colombo, was Sri Lanka’s second city, Kandy.

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The Temple of the Tooth is said to house Sri Lanka’s most revered object, a relic of a tooth belonging to the Buddha.

Thousands come here to worship and it’s worth visiting for an insight into Sri Lanka’s rich and complex religious history; I felt humbled by the intricately crafted temple interiors and the quiet peace within them.

Sri Lankans also pay great homage to the nation’s unique breed of elephants – don’t miss Raja, an enormous taxidermy beast given pride of place within the temple grounds.

Once down on the scorching south coast, resist the beach for a little while longer and make the most of the flatter land by renting a bike.

Sitting on a plateau in the centre of the island, it’s flanked by gorgeous, leafy hill country.


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